I'd guess you're pretty much sorted by now, Brian, but here's a slightly different approach. It's from a design by Graham Meek in EiM, November, 2013. In another thread about knurling tools, suggestions were made to the enquirer to the effect that his wheel pivot pins, which were retained by nuts, would benefit from them being fitted on the side away from the chuck, to both allow closer running of the tool to the chuck and minimise the possibility of a nut/chuck collision (sounds painful ). On my original version, I staked the wheel pins to the arms to achieve the same aim, but, of course, this precluded the changing of the wheels for different styles of knurl. I've recently bought a new QCTP and this encouraged me to revisit the knurling tool to improve it a bit. I milled off the integrated dovetail mount (for my old QCTP) and fitted a piece of 12mm x 12mm steel stock which fits in a standard toolholder. At the same time I removed the staked pivot pins and made up a pair of slimline clevis pins, retained with external circlips as shown below.
Download free Scissor Knurling Tool Plans
For marking, I based myself on the printout of my CAD design for the blade. For the first bevel, I opted to mark the 45 degree angle using only a compass and ruler, basically because I was in the mood of doing so. I could just as well used a protractor or any other method. I used a spare piece of plywood as "paper" (it will eventually be veneered, so the marks won't hurt). The drawing above shows the concept. I transferred the angle onto the blade blank with a ruler and indelible marker. I then marked the semicircular end freehand. For the second blade, I transferred the angle from the CAD drawing using a ruler. For the third one I transferred it, again from the CAD drawing, but this time I used a previously made sliding bevel (after all, it is my go-to tool for transferring angles). 2ff7e9595c
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